Thursday, August 30, 2012

A Bad Day for Humanity: The Court Ruling in the Case of Rachel Corrie




Cindy Corrie summed up her family’s view of the ruling issued by the Israeli justice system personified by Haifa District Court judge Oded Gershon by declaring the occasion “a bad day for humanity.”  The civil case was brought by the Corries who were seeking to establish Israel’s responsibility in the March 16, 2003 death of their daughter, Rachel, in Gaza. Rachel and other ISM activists were at the time attempting to stop a swarm of Israeli armored and weaponized D-9 caterpillars from demolishing some miserable Palestinians’ homes that impeded the free movement of Israeli armed forces. Thousands of those nuisances had to be cleared over the years.

The good judge thinks Rachel had no business being there in the first place. She had placed herself willingly in harm’s way by entering the shoot-to-kill zone that the entire Southern Command area constituted. Rachel should have learned a lesson from the many thousands of Palestinian residents of that same zone who had lost their lives to prove the army's point. By ignoring Israel’s warning, Rachel, the International Solidarity Movement and all their accomplices have gained their badges as terrorists and 'spilled their own blood' as a commander I heard testifying put it.

True, I was not physically there when Judge Oded issued his ruling to be able to personally contest or confirm Cindy’s opinion; true, Oded’s statement summed up his considered opinion that ran a total of 62 pages and covered his court’s deliberations over 15 sessions in which a total of 23 witnesses testified; and true, the press on both sides of the debate (as to whether Rachel was crushed by the advancing blade of a D-9 that apparently had to reverse back to “confirm the kill” or was struck dead by a falling meteor) quoted paragraphs of varying length from his statement. Yet they all missed his exact meaning, the essence of his thinking as I comprehended it across the globe. I was in that court on more than one of those 15 sessions and I am Israeli enough to appreciate the between-the-lines chutzpah of an aging former soldier defending the “most moral army in the world.” After all, Oded cut his first teeth in the judging business by serving as a military judge.

In my imagination, I stand right there in Oded’s court as he pronounces his ruling. I can see him clearly surveying us, the expectant audience: the foreign news correspondents, the representatives of foreign embassies and all the human rights horde waiting for the chance to tear the flesh of the IDF to pieces the moment the judge even as much as pulls a hair from its perfect body. He avoids the direct gaze of the plaintiffs' legal team except for rapid poisoned arrows shot in the direction of the freak byproduct (one could even call the likes of him ‘collateral damage’) of the Israeli justice and educational system in its battle for the advancement of humanity. He is a Palestinian lawyer named Hussain Abu-Hussain, a double whammy when even one Hussain was nearly enough to sink Obama down. Abu-Hussain has squeezed through the system to come and throw back at us all that we have taught him, Oded thinks and is outraged by the thought. Finally Oded faces Cindy, Craig and Sarah Corrie, who stare back at him from the front row with their unflinching determination to stand with Rachel before the advancing blade of that D-9. “Off with their heads!” Oded is about to pronounce. Then he reconsiders. The eyes of the whole world are on him. He sees not only the Corries but all of those rabble-rousers behind them as the visible tip of the iceberg of potential claimants of justice in the name of what they call international humanitarian law. Israel is an island of righteousness in an ocean of enmity and hate for us. And who is to defend Israel against the vicious hordes but the IDF! He shudders with one final stressful neuromuscular spasm that contorts his face and jerks his neck to the side as if addressing everyone in the crowd as he lets out a loud “Fuck you!” and withdraws to prepare for the coming war with Iran.

The Corries intend to appeal the ruling to Israel’s Supreme Court. What I imagine them being told here by the judge is as “thorough, credible and transparent” an answer as they should ever expect to hear from Israel. In the original, that insult is spread across 62 pages.  I bet you the Supreme Court ruling will cover more pages than that.


Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Reciting Alfatiha

This piece is part of my experimentation with creative fiction writing as fellow at the Writers Institute at CUNY

“It never used to be this hot when we were children,” I complain to Toufiq, my childhood village friend, as we scout the jujube bushes in my garden for the tart sweet chocolate-brown fruits. He reminds me of how enticing the fruit always seemed, thanks to the famous poetic imagery implanted in our young minds:
“And she bit the jujube fruit (of her fingertips) with the hailstones (of her teeth.)”

We would argue long evenings over the circumstances that compelled the poet’s beloved enchantress to coquettishly admit her guilt and bite the tips of her fingers in playful remorse. Then we would fall asleep pondering what could have followed in the way of reconciliation between the two lovers.

“It is the complicity of western consumerism with Arab oil dictators that has busted that gaping hole in the ozone layer,” I now say, hoping to raise Toufiq’s anti-colonial ire.

“We were children, less observant and much more tolerant physically of weather conditions,” He assures me. I argue back and he reminds me of the harsh conditions of village life in the old days.

“It has always been hot and arid in these parts. Have you forgotten that this is the Holy Land, land of so many prophets and three invented religions?”

I am used to his blasphemy. He comes from an even harsher rural background than mine. Some of the years I spent in the USA he spent in godless USSR.

“How about a hint? What does religion have to do with global warming?” I ask.

“Think of it, man! It was hot enough to fry the brains of so many desert vagabonds into all sorts of creative imaginings of a cooler place that they called paradise. From there it was all downhill. The rest is history.”

“It doesn’t all fit together. We have air-conditioning; we don’t need the promise of a cooler paradise. But in the USA they are still flocking in the millions to listen to Jerry Falwell.”

“It is because the Bushes and the Cheneys are in a hurry to wreck it all in preparation for Armageddon. And they make a killing from oil and weapons on the way.”

With Eid Alfitr marking the end of Ramadan, the holy month of fasting, just around the corner, we need to stock up on fruits, sweets and nuts, mukassarat –breakables-- as they are called in Arabic. The best modern-day Arab literary minds have long debated the quandary if hard candy-covered almonds, popularly known as pigeon eggs because of their shape and size, are among the true mukassarat or not. Toufiq and I have long opted to stay above the fray; we usually avoid buying the contested commodity. We don’t have the teeth for it.

We head to the Farmer’s Market at the edge of Arrabeh. Two days a week it attracts shoppers from all over Galilee. On the Sabbath it is full of Jewish shoppers. Second to young Jewish women in shorts, the black-tented Moslem women excite the loudest raucous cries of the sellers’ declaring their merchandize with open innuendos: “Spring chicken thighs at discount prices,” declares a butcher at the top of his lungs. “Take off the cover and enjoy the flavor!” responds the mango fruit seller. The absence of a single Jewish transient merchant in the market is unusual. I ask the candy man and he gives a cogent explanation: The stall owners arrive at dawn and much of the bulk trading with suppliers takes place at night. Jews in Israel need the security of daylight. I ask for confirmation from the young entrepreneur who operates the market.

“Let us keep away from politics,” he says. “I deal with all who support my business: covered Moslems, bare-breasted Christians or bikinied Jews.” He won’t be drawn into a more serious discussion. I figure that the young man, an internal refugee who has built a thriving business, is reluctant to speak out on what he considers to be a sensitive political issue.

With the alibi of looking for a flyswatter, we go on an extended exploration of merchandise, merchants and especially clients. To our surprise, eventually we do find the Chinese-made item we look for. Toufiq philosophizes:

“The old allegory has been reversed: ’the flutter of a flyswatter anywhere on earth affects the Chinese economy. Except for fresh mulukhiyeh, everything is made in China.’”

As we leave an ancient Peugeot blocks our way. Soon, it is sure to be on its way, piecemeal, to China. The driver is another of those women going full-tilt at a chance to qualify in the afterlife as a virginal maiden out of the seventy for some young martyr. She preserves all of Allah’s gifts in the form of her human image for her current lawful husband permitting only her eyes the freedom to roam the confusion around her. On the back fender are two prominent signs: the first with artistic Arabic calligraphy declares: “There is no God but Allah and Mohammed is His Prophet.” Right after it, the second warns in Thick Hebrew script: “Keep your distance.”

At home, my wife reminds me of all the items I have to tend to before we leave to New York: the AC in the house lost efficiency; the main electric safety switch keeps coming down; the icemaker in the fridge stopped making enough ice; and the washing machine lost its patience; it spins through a full cycle in minutes. Luckily, all the repairmen in Arrabeh are at my disposal. It is Saturday, the day on which, like the Good Lord, they stay home. Except that for them, unlike for its lawful owners, the Shabbat is not a day of rest but of alternative work for additional unreported income. No technician scoffs at the chance to do a small side chore for a little extra cash for the kids. It is Ramadan and children must have sweets and firecrackers after breaking their fast. One after the other the technicians arrive and pronounce the house sound.

“It is fit like a fiddle. It must be the overload because of the children and their children joining us for the summer,” I explain. “The use of utilities went up 300%, six welcome summer guests added to us two. Think what it would be like had we followed the rule of nines standard in our family tree.”

“You needn’t remind me,” my wife answers. “I would have been the first to malfunction from wear and tear. But could it be those technicians don’t know what they are doing? They are used to someone else making the decisions for them. May be we should call their employers on weekdays for an expert opinion. I don’t want to come home in six months to malfunctioning facilities.”

“Not to worry. Just like us, everything around here has gotten used to lower demand and lower maintenance. It is fine as long as the AC is on only part of the day and the icemaker doesn’t have to quench the thirst of half of the neighborhood’s kids. The issue is settled,” I declared in my usual tone of finality. You see, over four and a half decades, my wife and I have worked out a stable sharing of responsibilities: She is in charge of bringing up relevant issues and I am in charge of dismissing them. Much will change in six months. Why worry about it now?

The phone rings. It is still functioning. It is another grandniece asking if we could come to her family’s house for the formal visit of her fiancé and his family to recite Alfatiha – the opening chapter of the holy Koran -- to formalize and consecrate the young couple’s relationship. It is the second such invitation in as many days, I am reminded of my figs: They are all ripening at the same time. I have to beg neighbors and friends to help themselves to the fruit.

Like all the youth in my extended family, Laila is a sweetheart. Except that she is special: She had lost her father to diabetes at the young age of forty and her mother is a nurse, two facts of special relevance to the physician in me that I keep trying to ignore. And I was personally involved in the arduous matchmaking process between her parents, a fact that obligates me at some subliminal level. Laila’s mother was a dark-skinned Bedouin girl while her future in-laws, trapped in the purgatory of farming village peasantry, were desirous of catching a fair-skinned city girl for their firstborn son. Social climbing runs in the family. I busted my ass pushing against the solid wall of family opposition. At the end it was all worth it: the couple produced four lovely children, sufficiently acculturated in Israeli ways to attract attention when in mixed company:

“Are you a Persian immigrant?” Ashkenazi women would ask admiringly.

“No. I am Arab.”

“But you look nice,” they object.

The real trouble now is the fact that Laila’s sweetheart, whom she wants us to receive formally tonight, is Christian. We had already made a casual exchange of visits with the boy’s family.

“What do you think of it ammi?” Laila’s mother asks with an apprehensive tone of voice, addressing me with the respectful ‘uncle’. “Is it OK, ammi?”

Does she expect a reprimand, I wonder? Both of us are thinking ‘what would people say?’ but don’t vocalize our worry.

The small Christian community in Arrabeh has always been an integral part of our neighborhood. But it never was integral enough for intermarriage. We grew up playing in the churchyard and in the same fields with Christian boys. We attended the same school where both the priest and the imam taught us. But now I remember that the Christian boys skipped religion class. Suddenly I read significance in the fact that the imam taught us Arabic poetry and grammar while the priest taught us English as a second language. This was during the British Mandate days.
“Christians were cuddled and pampered by the British,” I blurt out.

“Ism Allah alaik! Are you alright uncle?” The woman utters Allah’s name for my protection; she looks worried. “You are straying off the topic.” She is a nurse and is in the habit of assessing the mental function of the elderly.

“Alzheimer pays me an occasional courtesy call but this is not one of those episodes, I assure you. I am reminded of the good old days. Christian girls were always just a tad more daring than Moslems in the way they dressed. They never covered their heads.”

“Are you referring to Laila? True, Laila doesn’t cover her head but usually she doesn’t wear daring clothes.”

“Did you ever hear the story about the religious sheikh who was always admonishing the womenfolk in his town to dress modestly? When a neighbor pointed out that the sheikh’s own wife was seen out in a miniskirt he responded: ‘But she is beautiful!’”

“Oh, ammi! You are making fun of my daughter. It is unfair.”

“Believe me, Laila is doing the right thing. She deserves the freedom and pampering only a Christian man can give her.”

I remember how pretty the Christian girls in our neighborhood looked. On the spot I fast-forward across a decade to the many times I accompanied my high school friends in Nazareth to church where I could ogle all the revealed ware of the female Easter service celebrants and drool mentally.

“Do you know the one about why we Moslems wear the hijab?”

“No. Tell me!”

“When God created the human race, He asked His three favorite prophets to choose their followers. It went by age. Moses came first and chose according to IQ. He chose the smartest ones and those were the Jews. All the rest were feeble-minded. Jesus considered his choices and decided to pick out the good-looking ones. Those are the Christians. That is where Laila belongs, believe me. Mohammed’s turn was last. He was left with a bunch of rejects. They were all disfigured. He took one look and said in desperation: ‘Yallah –come on! Cover your faces and follow me.”

“That is cruel. Women in our family don’t wear hijab and we are not disfigured.”

“That is why I don’t blame the young man for falling in love with Laila. But mentally we, Arab citizens of Israel, can use a lot of help, can’t we? Look around you. The Arab Spring is in full swing all across the Fertile Crescent and North Africa and the most revolutionary thing we have done is to stay away from cottage cheese.”

I take mental leave of my two guests. Instantaneously I am in beautiful Hawaii and it is the beautiful 1960s. I am slick of body enough to ride the Pacific waves; I am sharp of mind enough to top my class in every science course; and I have the social graces enough to woo a local mate. Campus life suits me well as the whiz kid at the center of a circle of foreign students: Its hub entwines me with a carefree Dutchman and an Indonesian worrywart; its periphery encircles us with a colorful mesh of Asian, African and South Pacific natives; and a frill of Anglo-Saxon American females are ever ready to lend a hand to stray foreigners. And what a hand they lend! A gaunt Gandhi minus the stick, a lanky Jomo Kenyatta minus the whip, and an ever-smiling Sudanese named Hassan Adlan enrich the Foreign Student Association with added authenticity and wisdom. Hassan is the brightest but shyly refuses to admit to it. “It is the shortcomings of the group around me. I shine because of the others’ tarnish. When you fail so badly that, unable to praise yourself, you speak ill of others, remember the Hassan Adlan principle: ‘Life grades us all on a curve.’”

I am back with my nieces, angry with them for being who they are, for being who we are: misfits among the misfits; Palestinians in Israel; Arabs among Jews among Arabs; Israelis in an Arab Middle East proud of its toppling of our allies. Dumping on others to gain prominence has never been harder. Middleclass Jews are vacationing in tents in urban centers across the country to protest their relative lack of luxury. We yearn to join but can hardly afford the tents. How can I feign disdaining them?

“God has gifted us with the handiwork of the servile Western nations. With no effort on our part, the West has developed all the implements we need for an easy life, from the sewing needle to the nuclear reactor, inshallah,” says one of our sages. In the intricacy of his logic, he forgets that our dependency on the servile West has left us rootless and worthless. How can I rise above the West’s treachery? Would the tent dwelling protesters demand segregated camps? Would they object to my excessive demographics? Would they cry ‘existential threat,’ their figurative ‘wolf’ as they see me with my ‘figurative’ brood of kids? And do the tent residents dare touch their holy defense cow that pictures us as the enemy, or the settler movement that wants to cleanse ‘their’ holy land of my taint? What means can I muster to belittle my belittlers?

I feign mental infirmity again. I know the young man’s name is Rabi’i.

“Is he called Qays?”

Laila’s fiancé does have a dreamy demeanor. I can see him striking out aimlessly across the Empty Quarter of the Arabian Desert, barefoot, unshaven and in tattered clothes, shouting out his pain and longing in rhyming couplets he recites to the gazelles he has befriended before he writes them with his stick in the sand for the desert winds to caress on their way to Laila’s oasis dwelling.
“I pass by the dwellings, Laila’s dwellings
and kiss this wall and that wall.
It is not the love of the walls that fills my heart
But the love of those who lived within the walls.”

Some nine centuries before Romeo and Juliet, Qays Ibn el-Molawwah, better known as Majnun –The Mad One –and Laila Alameriah played out the real life story of unconsummated passions and mortal infatuation. They bequeathed it to all romantic Arabs as the purest and most sacred form of love, al-hub al-utheri –virginal love. The Arab literati of the time recorded the details of their desert tribal saga with accuracy befitting the playful mirage of their wasteland; the Persians embellished the text and adorned the script with their flowery illustrations and passed it on to all serious romanticists across Asia; and the Indians couldn’t but mythologize it with their transcendental flourish picturing Laila bleeding from the very same sight in her body whenever Majnun suffered another wound. The most aching of wounds, those of the soul, ricochet across the Arabian Peninsula and back to afford Majnun an imagined opportunity for a measure of intimacy, even if contrived:
“They tell me Laila in Iraq is ill.
I wish I were the treating physician.”

The jealous husband challenges him to a dual. Alas, Majnun loses and Laila breathes her last breath all the way over in Iraq as the sword’s tip pierces his yearning heart. How the two came to be buried in Rajasthan for all the Indian lovers to visit till the present day, I will never know. Time and fertile imaginations work wonders.

“I am the last person who has the moral right to object to a mixed marriage,” I say suppressing the urge to make light of the subject. “After all, I am married to a Christian.”

“Yes, and there are others in our family. But they are men except for your daughter.” Laila’s mother must have given this subject much thought. “I know I married into a family of infidels,” and she breaks out in a nervous giggle.

“Thank God Laila didn’t end up with a Jewish or a Druze young man,” I say. “Otherwise you may live to see your grandchildren coming to visit you with automatic weapons slung on their shoulders. They may even be put in charge of evicting you from your unlicensed home.”

“God forbid! They took over our homes, our land, even our falafel. If they marry our daughters they confiscate our honor. Then we are lost forever.”

“Come off it now! You shouldn’t mind having an influential son-in-law who graduates from the army into a successful career as an arms dealer or an ambassador in some exotic capital. You may even look forward to being the mother-in-law of a prime minister ”

“I dream at my own size, ammi. As our saying goes, ‘stretch out your legs to the size of your bed.’ A nurse like me, only one step up from construction work, is good enough for me. They will be coming for their formal visit tonight. I am afraid someone on our side might speak out against Laila’s choice.”

“I don’t blame you. These are hard times for us. We are speed-skating through the westernization process that sweeps across all Arab societies. Some of us are likely to slip and fall.”

This is getting too serious for comfort, I remind myself. I pour a glass of pomegranate juice for each of my two women guests and two fingers of Scotch on ice for myself. I have downed two cold beers already without any effect. So many of our socialist leaders led our masses with vodka in hand. And most of them had blond Russian wives many of whom eventually walked out on them leaving us with the husbands’ hangover mutterings for sermons. No wonder our demands for justice and equality reach Western ears muffled and confused.

“Imagine where we would be had we focused all of our wasted energy on our own affairs,” says Laila’s future father-in-law ruefully one night. “We marched for hours with red flags to demonstrate against the assassination of Lumumba. Who in hell was Lumumba? And how did that help me get a permit from the military governor to reach my land to plant wheat for my children? But our leaders said it all added up to liberation for all the downtrodden in the world and we willingly suffered the consequences. They said international solidarity would rid us of the need for permits; it would dismantle the military rule. And, surely, it did. Except that by then they have confiscated my land and I no longer needed to reach it in the first place. Here, look at my son-in-law, a well-paid mechanic working in a Turkish immigrant’s shop, commuting every day with no need for a permit to travel. Times have changed. Who needs to bother with oxen and ploughs?”

“A few minutes before you told me you were not on talking terms with most of your immediate relatives because of land disputes,” I remind him. “If land is so insignificant, why can’t you make up with the folks?”

“One of my ancestors was a tax assessor for Thaher el-Omar and a great hoarder of wealth and land. That is how we came to own much of the valley of Ebillin.”

“I was always under the impression that Christian landholdings came down to you through the generations since the days of the Crusaders. After all, the name of your village and valley is that of a French Crusader king.”

“Regardless of who started it, when we divided the land between…”

“Stop it right there, please,” I interrupt. “I know the rest. There is not a single Palestinian extended family in Galilee that doesn’t have an internal feud based on conflicting land claims.” I catch myself lecturing but can’t simplify my thoughts. “The problem is more psychological than financial or utilitarian. We have inherited the subsistence farming need-based land protectiveness but lost the traditional communal magnanimity and the agrarian social accord that went with it.”

“It is much simpler than that,” says my wise host. “It is too many unemployed lawyers and too many illiterate old women telling them what to do.” Obviously, he generalizes from his specific experience.

“He might be a simple old farmer, but he has experience and native smarts,” says my niece of her daughter’s future father-in-law. She always finds buried treasures when she is desperate for a compliment to boost her own morale. “And he is a dyed-in-the-wool communist,” she adds. “It is lucky we got to know the folks after the collapse of the Soviet Union. In the old days his son wouldn’t have had a chance to train as a nurse in Israeli. Now communists no longer register on the Shin Bet’s radar. Of course, the kid could have gotten a scholarship to a Soviet Union country and come back as a doctor. But then he would have come back a godless alcoholic and with a blonde wife. We would have lost him before Laila found him.”

“Any objection from any immediate relatives so far?” I broach the sensitive subject.

“None openly. I insist that we follow the customary procedure of a formal visit where they recite Alfatiha.”

“But they are Christian. They don’t know Alfatiha and some old religious fuddy-duddy on our side may raise a fuss. The young man should convert even if nominally.”

“Let us get this straight,” I don my learned hat again. “The hitch is that Israel does not recognize interfaith marriages. But it recognizes such marriages if imported from abroad. This is hardest for Jews. Moslems have it easy. Islam permits interfaith marriages. All that is required is for the two partners to state their willingness to marry each other in the presence of two witnesses. What remain are the social formalities. Here is my scenario then: The two kids declare their intentions to the two of us; that covers religion. Then we go through the social partying at a banquet hall; that is the responsibility of the groom’s family. Then the two go to Cypress for their honeymoon and come back with a certificate of civil marriage that they perform at the municipality there. That takes care of the legality of the marriage in Israel. You think you two can wing it, Laila?”

“Yes, but my mother wants Alfatiha and his parents want a church ceremony.”

“Let us do both then.”

“He doesn’t know Alfatiha by heart like us.”

“We read it silently, each addressing Allah reverently in his own heart.”

“You want me to tell him to lie?”

“You can manage that one, one way or the other,” the mother says firmly. “What worries me is the likelihood of one of our other two elders making a scene. You take liberty with your interpretation of Islam and they may object. ”

“They will not. I have explained to both of them that they can stay away if they don’t want to be seen attending such a compromised affair.”

Suddenly our cat, Edward, marches eastward across the yard ahead of a pack of tomcats. Muammar, the fattest cat of them all, strides confidently in the first row.

“Are you any good in interpreting dreams,” I ask my niece and grandniece.

“Not especially.”

“How about epiphanies? Did you see what I just saw? All those cats headed east with a purpose. It is too late for us humans though.”

“What are you talking about, ammi?”

“It would have been a different destiny had our leaders followed Edward Said’s advice and stopped slavishly emulating the West. The way it is, parents cannot send their children away from home for college and expect them to stick to traditional rules of conduct. Regardless how conservative parents are, they can’t put a lien on their child’s virginity while he or she is away at the Hebrew University campus for four years.”

Laila breaks out of her pouty silence with a chuckle: “No one has invented the perfect remote-control chastity belt so far. Very likely someone at Apple is working on the u-belt.”

“You mean the i-bellt?”

“The ‘i’ series gave its users freedom and individuality. They are inventive enough to start a new ‘u’ line designed to control. That is how parents will be able to sleep well with their children not directly under their thumb.”

“The Saudis would love to invest in that, I am sure,” I say.

“The CIA is probably working on it already. You were there and know the Americans. The entire World Wide Web was started to facilitate exchange of information between academics with military research contracts.”

“The IDF probably have secured the contract for the final product already,” I venture.

“They will be sure to put a brainy young religious Jew in charge of it so it would be determined in advance who controls whom when the use of the technology extends beyond the eternal intergenerational parent-child conflict.”

“Like our National Service scheme.”

“Exactly! We do the service and they are the nation. After all, the country is defined to exclude us.”

“But we look up to them, nevertheless. Our young generation emulates theirs and theirs emulates America’s youth and the latter is rotten to the core by our old standards. Our leaders have to digest that truth thoroughly. Their only escape route towards our authentic values is eastward and it is too late for that. They had a choice with oil and they flubbed it. They should have taught their children about Gandhi, not Churchill. At least we could have kept our falafel.”

“But not our al-hub al-uthari,” Laila demurs.

The evening westerly breeze softens the mood of the gathering members of Laila’s immediate family waiting for the guests in the spacious veranda of her home. The women move elsewhere to make space for the men’s officious gathering. I object but am overruled by my own wife.

“Don’t make waves. This is how they do it traditionally. This is not the time for revolutions.”

“The hell it is not! Haven’t you been following the news? Libyan rebels have just breached Gaddafi’s compound.”

“I am serious. Let us hope this make-believe show passes peacefully.”

“I’ll never marry another man,” Laila asserts. “Neither of us two cares much about our presumed different faiths. He is the one for me regardless what happens tonight.”

A party of six arrives: Four elders and the young man and his father. We exchange minimal formal introductions and the customary niceties. Their lead speaker, a ponderous man with a PhD in a field requiring great imagination, launches into an imaginary account of the heroics of Arrabeh’s residents in the Land Day mini uprising. A relative of ours responds with a tale of humility and denial:

“The most memorable act by a member of this family from those days is that of an uncle of ours who was arrested from his hiding place at home and taken away in his underwear. He managed to stop the army’s halftrack in its tracks by pounding forcefully on the driver’s window. When the soldiers halted for him and rushed back with their guns pointing at his head, he explained that he was getting carsick in the back and would one of them be good enough to exchange seats with him!”

Everyone laughs heartily and the tension in the air melts away. The former mayor of Ebillin formally asks for Laila’s hand in marriage to their boy who smirks self-consciously. I respond in the affirmative on behalf of the family and request all to recite Alfateha to guarantee Allah’s blessings for the couple. I cup my hands in the standard Islamic posture when begging for favors from Allah. Qays cups his two hands like all the Moslems in the group and after a brief pose rubs his face with his two palms in the usual gesture of ending the silent prayer. By now my bladder threatens to burst its dikes. I open the connecting door to the house and catch Laila hiding behind it, tears streaming down her face and gulping for air between fits of silent crying.

“We spent two evenings memorizing the seven verses. I was afraid he wouldn’t get it right.”

Sweets, coffee and fruits are offered, starting on the left and moving right.

“Coffee moves rightward even if Abu-Zaid were on your left,” an elder offers the standard wisdom referring to the the famed Arab swordsman. The young man pouring the cardamom-flavored bitter coffee, Laila’s younger brother, beams his willful acceptance of everyone’s standard wish for him to be the next one to catch the engagement bug. The father of the groom accepts everyone’s congratulations and good wishes. As he pays me farewell the father assures me he is as proud as Lumumba once was.

My niece, the gracious hostess and mother of the bride, expresses admiration for my presence of mind in saying what I said to the guests.

“I hope I didn’t jinx Laila’s engagement, though,” I say. “I forgot half of the verses in Alfatiha. You are right. I should start taking vitamin D and Omega-4.”

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Nabeel's Funeral

January 15, 2012:
I have spent the six days since I arrived back in Arrabeh in sad and dreary nonstop social formalities. I arrived at the height of the cold and rainy Galilee winter to be directly drafted to the receiving line of family elders accepting the condolences of people, many I had never met or seen before, on the occasion of the death of my 51-year-old nephew and namesake, the son of my younger sister who was born shortly after I left the first time to study in the USA. In fact part of the rationale for this three-week-long home visit, a break in my academic year At the Writers’ Institute of CUNY, was to see Hatim before his expected death from Renal Cancer against which he had battled for the past three years. At every step of his losing battle he had enlisted my mainly moral and psychological support against his awful disease. He knew I had retired from active medical practice but, like other members of my extended family, he sought my opinion and reassurance regarding what the oft-impersonal modern medical care system dished out for him. “Thank you uncle. Visiting you gives me encouragement to go on,” he would tell me at the end of each visit, usually accompanied by his ever-smiling properly hijab-clad wife and their toddler first grandchild.

Four months ago I left to join my daughter’s family in New York for the current academic year as a fellow of the Writer’s Institute of CUNY in the fiction track. I thought it would be nice to escape from the maddening buzz of New York’s life back to the quiet of my garden in the vain conviction that it was certain to need my special attention. We had collected seeds of wild flowers last summer and I wanted to spread them myself in the right places in the garden once I had turned the weeds over. So far it has rained daily and I have had no chance to work the ground. And I had counted on seeing my friend and namesake before his departure. He died and was buried 24 hours before I arrived. After all, giving the dead a proper burial is the honorable thing to do, the sooner the better according to local tradition. After three days of receiving people who came to pay their respects I was all set to visit with other family members and friends.

I started with my late second brother’s household. A niece prepared coffee and another updated me on family news while I teased a couple of her children playing a game on an electronic gadget. Suddenly her melodramatic husband barged in and, skipping the proper greetings, shouted that Nabeel died in a car accident. Everyone started inquiring, shouting, cussing and running confused in disbelief.

“Who told you?” I asked.

“Mohammad, my son. A friend called him.”

I called the friend. He confirmed the news and explained that Nabeel was his friend and that an hour earlier he identified Nabeel's body lying on the side of the road by the totaled car half way down the road to Acre, not far from the water reservoir. There was no doubt about it; Nabeel, my 19-year-old grandnephew and favorite gardening helper, son of Rudaina, my favorite nurse, orphaned youngest child of my late nephew, grandson of my favorite late brother, had died.

I got in my car and drove the half-mile to Rudaina’s house but no one was home. I called her mobile but it was out of range. Accompanied by another nephew I met on the way who had also heard the news I headed back to my brother’s family home, the home in which I grew up as a child right next to al-Zawieh, the Kanaaneh clan guest house, fronted by a small space that once was the village’s main square but now is the conversion point of four different paved village alleys. We arrived to a scene of total confusion: A crowd of all ages and from all parts of the village had gathered in the tiny space blocking the homeward traffic of laborers returning from the city and of Nabeel’s age mates driving up to verify the rumor regarding their friend. I left my car running and went up to the second floor of my late brother’s compound where a confused Rudaina was begging to get any information about her son. I held her to my chest and said:
“Nabeel was in a car accident. His condition is serious. Come with me to the hospital. We will find out what exactly happened.”

“No! Uncle! Please God, let me see Nabeel alive!”

Of course, that was not to be. I played for time and gave Rudaina a valium. As we got in the car another cousin of Nabeel’s, the deputy mayor of the village, stuck his head in and said in an officious tone of voice:
“I just spoke to the police officer at the scene. Nabeel died and his body is at Naharya Hospital. No sense in going there. I will bring the body in the morning.”

I turned the motor off, helped Rudaina out of the car and back into the house, pushing my way through the crowd of screaming women and children relatives and their doting and supportive men repeating the Islamic mantra of “God is great. There is no power but God’s.” As we climbed the stairs to the second story living room, the gathered aunts, uncles and cousins realized the absolute certainty of the news. An ear-splitting cacophony of shrieking women, men and children shouting Nabeel’s name nearly caused me to faint. I managed to hold steady with Rudaina leaning on my shoulder and whispering her son’s name: “Nabeel! My beloved son!”

A while later I managed to leave her in the care of a fellow nurse, her trustworthy neighbor and friend, and to leave the womenfolk to assume my expected role as the elder member of the bereaved household. By the time I entered el-Zawieh more than one brass decanter full of thick black coffee had materialized in the brazier in front of my cousin Derwish, the diwan’s chief attendant. The strong coffee is the final outcome of days-long slow concentrating process on low fire of the magic potion most respected old men in the village occupy themselves with preparing and intermittently tasting till it reaches the desired thickness and mature flavor. Kanaaneh practitioners of the art who had heard of the death of Nabeel must have sent their coffee in anticipation of its possible shortage with so many visitors, both men and women. Other neighbors had sent bags of wood coal for the coffee brassiere that will be kept burning for the next three days, cartons of mineral water and boxes of dried dates, the other obligatory items in receiving of will-wishers who had already started arriving to pay their respects.

Shortly, several bearded young men arrived in a pick-up truck with hundreds of plastic chairs, a tent, two gas space heaters and two projector-style electric lights and proceeded to prepare an additional receiving space to el-Zawieh for the womenfolk. I enquired who in the family had the presence of mind to request their services and was told that this was done automatically and offered gratis by the village’s Islamic Movement. The portly ex-mayor of the village, a former teacher of Nabeel and member of the Islamic Movement who specializes in the sordid but required task of washing the dead, arrived and offered a few consoling Koranic verses. He then left to the mosque for the after dusk prayer, the fifth and last prayer of the day, after which he announced Nabeel’s death on the mosque’s loudspeaker:
“The young man, Nabeel the son of the late Khaled Ahmad Abdul-Kader Kanaaneh has departed to the mercies of God the Almighty. His remains will be entrusted to their last resting place tomorrow after the noon prayer. We all are from God and to him we all return.”
Across the ancient thick walls of el-Zawieh where we, the men of the family, sat I heard the shrieking cries of Rudaina and her two daughters from the receiving area for women next door. It touched something very deep in me. Alas, men are not supposed to cry or scream openly; I played by the rules hiding my silent tears with my Kafeyah scarf. By ten o’clock that night the crowd had dispersed. I begged Rudaina to accept a Valium tablet or a sleeping pill but she refused. After much convincing and explaining she and her three remaining children accepted Melatonin.


Over the next three days I alternated between fulfilling my traditional duty as an elder among elders of the clan and offering my shoulder to Rudaina, her son Ahmad, her two daughters: Laila, a teacher, and Muna, a nursing student, to act out their loss in tears and repeated objection to whoever decreed it. Nabeel’s aunts and uncles on both sides, his many cousins, friends and classmates were left for others to console. With my older brother, Prof. Sharif Kanaaneh, in attendance, I was relegated to the rank of second in command in terms of formalities. But because I am a resident of the village, despite my temporary absence in NY, while he lives in Ramallah, and because of my professional association with Rudaina over the years, I was the one to bear the brunt of tending to the practical minutia: the police and traffic department reports, the hospital papers, the burial permit, etc. etc. When I learned of the passing away two days before of a respected old farmer from another clan in Arrabeh, I accompanied a calling party of Kanaaneh respectable elders to the mourning family, the Yasins, who would make a return visit to our quarters that same evening. Two days later, similar visits of a dozen elders from each side would be exchanged with the Aslis who would loose a middle-aged laborer to heart attack.

In playing my role and fulfilling these duties I was aided by many nephews, cousins and neighbors who stood at my beck and call, not to mention relatives and friends from half a dozen Arab communities in Galilee who were more than ready with their advice and counsel as well as cars and muscle power when needed for a chore. Such volunteerism reached its peak when the body arrived as scheduled, one hour before the noon prayer, in the special Islamic Movement’s hearse, the service with the special driver again provided gratis without being requested by the family. The waiting crowd of men swooped down from all directions to help with the highly commendable task of carrying the body in the temporary casket into the house where the heart-rending screams of the women reached to high heaven. After half an hour I had to use my authority to snatch the body from the grieving crowd of women and let it be carried upstairs to a room where it was washed, perfumed and anointed and a proper ablution performed on it in preparation for it to enter the mosque and, after the prayer for the departed and the burial, to meet its creator and His accountant angels who would tally up Nabeel’s few minor sins and many good deeds. It was then wrapped in stitch-less white cloth and placed in the casket to be carried for its last trip. I then asked Nabeel’s brother to assist me in taking his mother and two sisters to kiss Nabeel a last goodbye. I figured that assigning him this task would lighten his burden of sadness and bereavement.

As I walked down to bring Rudaina and her two daughters, two teenage boys begged me to permit them to go in and cast a last glance at their friend. When I agreed the asked to be accompanied by a third classmate, Nabeel’s girl. I was awestruck. What will that do to the girls reputation in the village? I recalled that I was attacked and narrowly escaped being knifed because a girl in my high school class laughed at my jokes. And more recently, both of my children finished high school without ever admitting to having specific friends of the opposite sex. And it is only two generations from the days when the only men a woman could talk to were her husband, father and brothers. The boys saw through my anxiety and sought to reassure me.

“It is alright, uncle. They are together on Facebook.”

I went down and found the girl crying in Rudaina’s arms. I took her in one arm and Rudaina on the other, Ahmad held Mona, his younger sister, while her fiancé, a Christian boy, supported Laila. I knew I was outdated. What amazed me most was the total silent acceptance of all of these ‘transgressions’ by the crowd of mostly hijab-clad women surrounding us.

The rain let up just long enough for the funeral procession from the mosque to the Kanaaneh cemetery on a rocky knoll best known as the sight of the grave of a holy man, formerly well-respected locally until recent years when it was monopolized and walled off to locals by Jewish fundamentalists as that of Rabbi Hanan Ben Dosa. Because of crowding Nabeel was buried at the same site with his late father who died in his forties because of diabetes. I have never seen a bigger crowd at a funeral in Arrabeh. Nabeel’s popularity with his age mates, his mother’s years of service as the maternal and child health nurse for the largest, and, not incidentally, the poorest neighborhood in the village, his aunts’ services as nurse and teacher, his brother Ahmad’s rapid climb to the deputy CEO of the largest Arab transport and tourism company in Israel, his late father’s and grandfather’s well respected memory and wide circles of friends, and perhaps my own service as the first local physician added up to where they made attendance near compulsory to all the adult male population of this 24-thousand-strong town still behaving in the classic intimate village mode. I stayed away from the actual lowering of Nabeel’s body in the ground. Instead, I turned my attention to observing the ongoing social interaction. It dawned on me for the first time that the whole process involved men only even if the dead were to be a woman. Come to think of it, Allah Himself and all of his prophets since Adam, as well as all His angels, are always referred to in the masculine form. Strange visions floated up from my subconscious regarding the inappropriateness of male angels squeezing into the subterranean narrow spaces of dead women. I dared not raise the question with the better-informed sheikhs.

After the lowering of the body in the ground and the religious invocation, the Kanaaneh elders stood in a receiving line in the street outside the cemetery and accepted the condolences of participants from outside Arrabeh. The inclement weather led to excusing locals from the traditional gesture of paying their respects right after the burial.

“We will be honored to see all of you at el-Zawieh,” the cousin heading the line announced apologetically. “We know you will honor us with that so we can skip the additional kindness here.”

Indeed, we then returned to the clan’s guesthouse to welcome men visitors all the waking hours of the next three days. They arrived mostly in groups of family constellations or friends from all over Galilee and beyond. Few independent or lonely souls arrived alone such as Yoav, a longtime dear family friend from Tel-Aviv. Though he was the only Jewish man to call on this sad occasion, he felt close enough to join the receiving line as another member of our family. Our near total social separateness from the majority population of Israel was not as total when it came to women. Female visitors were received separately next door in the much-overhauled old house in which I grew up that had since devolved down the inheritance line to Nabeel’s paternal uncle, my nephew, as the ground floor of his nuclear family residence. Rudaina’s nurse colleagues from the Ministry of Health, both Arab and Jewish, showed up in a group to console her. Shosh, one of my former secretaries at the ministry’s district office dared to drive up alone later on and insisted on seeing me. Simona, Her friend and my personal French-Moroccan secretary, had already retired, I was informed. I was pleasantly surprised to find Shosh still her old blond sweet self despite the years. Her boys are both in their thirties now, she told me. And the office never recovered from the loss I inflicted on it by leaving it, she insisted.

The single large room that constitutes el-Zawieh was empty of furniture except for a wood-coal-burning brassiere functioning as space heater and to keep the coffee decanters hot and a small table with a set of damascene demitasses. The perimeter of the hall had built-in seating with thin mattresses along three walls. We, half-a-dozen older men from the bereaved clan, sat on chairs against the remaining wall by the entrance. Additional seating for the human overflow beyond the capacity of el-Zawieh was provided at the balcony that had been protected from the elements by plastic sheeting provided by the local Islamic Movement and heated by a space heater from the same source. All visitors on this sad occasion were accorded the same level of proper respect and attention: We stood up to exchange individual greetings and standard niceties and epitaphs, conveyer-belt one-on-one style, before they took their seats around the perimeters of the room. Young adult men of our family promptly poured each a sip of the extra-concentrated, cardamom-flavored black coffee. Two concessions to modern public health were in evidence: Water was offered instead of cigarettes and it was poured in plastic single-use cups and not in the same metal or glass mug being passed around as was formerly done. However, the black coffee was offered in only two porcelain cups offered in alternating style down the line. Dried dates followed, but this is a practice frowned at by many and not sanctioned by most religious authorities except in the case of old people who had done the Haj to Mecca. On more than one occasion I managed to keep awake by performing simple statistical analysis on the 3-4-dozen men sitting around the circumference of the room at a time: No more than 10% wore traditional attire; about half smoked cigarettes at a time; the other half busied themselves with their worry beads; and half of the total were visibly obese. As a new wave of well-wishers arrived, the previous crowd would get up and proceed to shake our hands in reverse order and repeat the same slogan utterances on their way out:
“May God have mercy on his soul.”
“May this be your last sad occasion.”
“May God protect your youth.” Etc. etc.
And we responded with equally standard appropriate responses:
“May Allah repay you for your consolation.”
“May you never experience the loss of dear ones.”
“May you and your youth live long.”

And so on and so forth with the only break in the near mechanical three-day-long repetitive sequence of getting up, shaking hands, siting down and starting over again afforded by invitations to the homes of second degree relatives for our meals. The same households sent large amounts of food for the women of the bereaved household: fresh bread, rice with roasted pine nuts and spiced ground meat, lamb or chicken cooked in yogurt with vegetables and beans, various combinations of salads, pickles and preserved olives. Sleep was a welcome escape from it all followed by early morning Skype conversations with my wife, children and grandchildren in The States.

On the facing wall from our seats in el-Zawieh the enlarged photograph of my late uncle who, in his British Mandate days had brought the guesthouse into prominence regionally, peered at us from its wooden frame. On both sides hung the photos of his deceased sons and grandsons who had occupied respected positions in the family constellation. My grandfather, the original founder of the institution who had guaranteed its survival with a generous land endowment, lived during the days of the Ottomans when photography was highly uncommon in these parts. This all was recent, I realized. So were the whitewashing of the walls and the four decorative plastic panels affixed to the ceiling. I appreciated the attention paid to maintaining this traditional communal space in use. Except that the panels looked out of place; they had a French Renaissance pink curlicue flare to their stylized flowery motif. I inquired about this and was told that Derwish, the current titular operator of the guesthouse had refurbished it recently to his own taste. He had wrestled control of the prestigious institution when its former more traditional occupant, triply his cousin, passed away. An alert young relative reached to the wall and took down a framed hand-written document hanging there as well. He wiped the dust from the glass and proceeded to read the Arabic language consensus statement of representatives of all the individual households of the descendants of my late influential uncle, Darwish’s domineering grandfather that he tries now to emulate. The statement was replete with claims of peaceful family relations, brotherhood and tranquility. Then the young man showed me another larger document in cursive Arabic script, the message the Caliph Omar sent to reassure the Christian residents of Jerusalem before its Islamic conquest. It is a most honorable document promising peace, equality and justice. Its humanitarian spirit is worthy of admiration and respect not by Arabs and Muslims alone. I felt moved by the fact that the simple folk in my village saw fit to honor this example of magnanimity and justice by posting it at their most prominent and respected communal public space in the same manner that most Muslims honor their scriptures. The young man pointed to the four signatures of prominent Islamic leaders affixed to the document as witnesses to Omar’s declaration. Only then did he show me the signatures of the witnesses to the local smaller handwritten document, all of whom are run-of-the-mill members of the younger generation of relatives and the last of whom had signed his name in poorly written Hebrew.

“The two documents are hung together,” he commented.

I couldn’t help but surrender to a most inappropriate chuckle, given the sad circumstances.

This kind of lighthearted fun-poking chat with members of the younger generations beyond the first circle of nephews and nieces provided a sort of soft underbelly to the sad occasion of Nabeel’s departure. In fact, his loss has brought members of the two formerly closest households to me in Arrabeh, those of my two late oldest brothers who were married to two sister cousins of theirs, each bringing up nine children and those in turn having their own children, including Nabeel, and, in several cases, their grandchildren. As expected, competing for the scant attention from adult family members in the less than attentive rural setting has resulted in continuous friction between the two near identical households with competing and contradictory land claims, nearly a reenactment on a small scale of the Israel-Palestine conflict. Much as I tried to stay out of it and play the role of the impartial third party, I was eventually drawn into the fray. The last few days have seen members of the two parties back together till the next conflict. I wondered if I shouldn’t try my hand at resolving the Middle East conflict. Or would it need a major disaster first?

A much more tender affair was also noticed on this sad occasion: Laila’s Christian fiancé didn’t leave her side throughout the mourning period. The two clung together from the moment the news of the passing away of her brother, Nabeel, had reached them in Jerusalem. Rabi’i proved to be supportive and ever attentive and helpful to Laila’s and to her mother and two siblings. Their love and sincerity showed through the sadness and the confusion. They did away with all caution and no one dared criticize their open loving relationship despite the gloomy miasma of conservatism and religious fundamentalism all around. Few in our family failed to notice and to appreciate this open show of commitment of the two young people across the presumed religious barrier.

In the receiving line at the cemetery as well as later while receiving the droves of well-wishers in el-Zawieh, my anthropologist brother, Sharif, inquired frequently about the identities of fellow villagers. My residence in the area and service as local physician afforded me more contact with Galilee folks than him. At one point, during a meal break, Sharif remarked about the effect of advanced age on our former schoolmates and friends:
“It is peculiar how deleterious age is esthetically to humans,” he, the social scientist, observed. “No other animal species suffers from bad looks in old age as much as we humans do. Dogs, cats, donkeys and fowl don’t deteriorate in outward appearances as badly as we humans do.”

“It is because you look at them with human eyes,” answered our carpenter cousin who is the oldest living man in our clan and hence leads the pack of Kanaaneh elders. “If you were a donkey all humans, young and old, would look the same to you. As an old turkey you probably would notice the change in the plumage and crowns of other turkeys.”

One interesting aspect of the above standard socio-religious stage-like routine acted out by all concerned on the funerary occasion is the self-assigned role played by the many Muslim sheiks and aspirant imams. Like other guests, they show up uninvited, usually accompanied by a small entourage of disciples and followers. After exchanging the standard greetings and sipping their black coffee, they would call all those present to attention with a catchy prayer and then proceed to deliver a sermon addressed mainly to us, members of the bereaved family. They would advise us to accept what fate had decreed and not to loose faith in Allah’s mercies. Then they would turn to reassuring us of Nabeel’s guaranteed place in paradise, given his Islamic faith, his youth and innocence, and his many good deeds and knowing the good Lord’s boundless forgiveness and love for all those He created in His own image. Then they would delve into warning the living regarding the certainty of death and the darkness of the grave except for those who had lived a virtuous life and performed their religious duties. Each of these points was usually highlighted and illustrated by a story. Then they would end with a sequence of prayers asking the good Lord to favor Nabeel with His blessings and favorable treatment. Some of the favors requested give away their Arabian Desert origin such as asking Allah to bathe his body with hail and snow.

The lectures varied in creativity, eloquence and width of horizons but they often repeated the same illustrative stories. What I found entertaining was hearing the very same content, phrased slightly differently by the young Catholic priest from the neighboring village of Sakhnin. And he was respectfully answered with the same platitudes from our side. Only one sheik with a bell-like baritone voice departed from the routine by singing verses from the Koran that covered all the usual points. I enjoyed his melodious performance so much that I asked him to return on the third and last evening to recite more Koranic verses to celebrate the end of the mourning and guest-receiving period in place of the standard final sermon by a local imam. Alas, another talkative sheik arrived with him and forced us all to listen to a repeat of the same well-worn religious lesson. All of this was beamed to the women quarters next door over a loudspeaker. They had their own share of women lecturers, sheikahs, but the pious male Koran reciters would not enter their circle live.

One oft-repeated story caught my fancy. I must have heard it a dozen or more times during the three day mourning period as part of the captive audience for the sheiks. It related an incident that allegedly took place in the court of King Solomon who is regarded by Muslims as a miracle-performing prophet of Allah. One day the angel of death entered King Solomon’s court in the form of a regular human. Later, as the angel in human form left, one of those present wanted to know who he was? King Solomon informed him of his true identity. The man broke down and cried in fear:
”Woe is me! The angel of death didn’t avert his eyes from me for a single moment. Please, King Solomon, save me from him!”

King Solomon accepted the poor man’s plea and, on the spot, transported him to hide all the way in India. The next morning the angel of death appeared in the prophet’s court again. The prophet asked why he, the angel in human form, had looked so intently at that poor man the previous day.

“I was trying to resolve a conundrum: My orders from the good Lord were to proceed to India to collect the man’s soul last night. And yet he was sitting here at your court. Finally, confused, I obeyed and proceeded to India where, lo and behold, I met my man right there. God is great!”

“Brothers,” the sheik who narrated the same story to bring the three days of public mourning to an official end glowered at us in el-Zawieh. “There is no escaping from death.”

“May God preserve your tongue,” a macho older cousin responded in agreement on our collective behalf. “The Arab poet put it well: ‘He who doesn’t die by the sword dies by other means.’”

A smile lit the face of the young man next to me.

“Where is the pun?” I demanded.

“What threatening belligerence!” he whispered back. “The poet said that line urging his fellow tribesmen to go to war. I guess the sheiks have repeated that story one time too many for our man.”

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Oh, No! Bagger Befriends Cashier. You Need a Whip to Teach People a Lesson After Something Like This Happens

The following is an exercise in open plagiarism. Even the title above is taken from the text of the article as it appears in the Tuesday, July 26, 2011 issue of the Israeli paper,Haaretz, and on its website at the following link:
http://www.haaretz.com/print-edition/news/israeli-grocery-store-keeps-arab-baggers-and-jewish-cashiers-apart-1.375301
Someone posted the comment: “It's really a pity that this kind of news doesn't get into the US media.” Upon reading that, I decided to take up the challenge. The article was featured on the first page of the English version of the respected Haaretz Paper as another news item with no editorial comment or fanfare and the reporter’s tone lacked any sense of bafflement or condemnation. To give the piece the right ring I decided to alter the setting to one more familiar to US citizens who are not that involved in Middle East politics. I reverted to my limited acquaintance with Hawaii and the continuing struggle of Native Hawaiians against racism and the theft of their land. I realize that the simile would be even more striking if I were to choose the Navajos for example. But I know little about that nation. So bear with me please and imagine reading the following in the Tuesday, July 26, 2011 issue of the Honolulu Star Bulletin. At the end I appended a list of the terms that I have changed:



American grocery store keeps Hawaiian baggers and white cashiers apart
It appears that RL chain has given in to a demand from local pastors at Nanakuli branch, in wake of romance between a Hawaiian bagger and White cashier.
By CL

In an effort to prevent fraternizing between the Hawaiian packers and the female White cashiers, baggers are no longer working at the checkout counters most of the week. An exception was made for the Wednesday and Thursday night shifts, when the checkout counters are so busy that there is little opportunity for conversation.
The decision followed a storm that arose in the Nanakuli White-only suburbs after it was reported that a local (White) girl working as a cashier had become romantically involved with one of the Hawaiian baggers.
Workers at the supermarket and a leading local pastor say the Hawaiian worker was fired, but RL denies that, saying, “He’s gone off to California. When he returns, we’ll see.” The cashier quit on her own.
Ever since RL Marketing opened its Nanakuli branch, it has been a source of local controversy. It is located near a gas station and not within a white only suburb, making it possible for Whites and Polynesian shoppers to mingle freely. Most of the workers are Hawaiians from the area, who handle deliveries, bag groceries and stack shelves. The cashiers are mostly young women from the Whites-only suburbs.
While there have been periodic media reports lauding the supermarket as an island of Hawaiian-White coexistence, right-wing groups and some locals have issued calls to boycott it, saying it was leading to inter-religious relationships. These campaigns did not fare well. In fact, the supermarket has been so crowded that small grocers in the area’s communities have started to fear for their business.
Over the past two weeks, however, after reports of the cashier-packer affair spread, Pastor GP, the pastor of a neighboring Whites-only suburb, met with chain owner RL and demanded that he take action to prevent a recurrence.
“There was an affair between a cashier and a bagger that nearly resulted in her leaving home,” GP told our paper. “There was a plan to take her to his village.
“I was asked to talk to RL and his staff about the problem, and told them that one of the things we had feared when the store opened a year ago was exactly this.
“I’m pleased by the steps RL has taken. The Hawaiians don’t particularly like this [interreligious relationships] either, and it seems that RL understands the problem. The worker was fired and will not return. You need a whip to teach people a lesson after something like this happens.”
RL denies the worker was fired. He declared himself “against assimilation” and insisted that “there was suspicion of an affair. There was no affair. These extremist groups keep getting involved and making everybody crazy. “This is the ‘peace supermarket,’ he said. “Extremist Hawaiians and Whites don’t like it.”

Changes made from the original article:
Israeli to American
Palestinian to Hawaiian
Jewish to White
Chaim Levinston to CL
Rami Levi to RL
Gush Etzion to Nanakuli
Rabbi to pastor
Settlements to Whites-only suburbs
Jordan to California
Rami Levi Shivuk Hashikma to RL Marketing
Arab to Polynesian
Settler to White
Gideon Perl to GP
Alon Shvut to a neighboring Whites-only suburb
Haaretz to our paper

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

The Olive Conversion

The Olive Conversion
Review of Pamela Olson’s “Fast Times in Palestine,” Mason Hill Press, New York, 2011

Right after glancing at the first page, I knew I fancied this book and envied its author. For a few years now I have been struggling with the urge to write an account of life in my community that would attract readers not because of its subject matter or politics but because of its style and plot. It would be read for pleasure and inform incidentally. Right away I realized Pamela Olson had done exactly that. The first blurb on the first page said it: “The result is a moving, inspiring account of life in Palestine that’s enormously informative yet reads like a novel.”

Yet, as I speed-read through the enchanted account of Olson’s year and a half in Palestine, I realized that my scheme was easier dreamt than implemented: In Ramallah she adopts and adapts to Journalism as a default profession, and on a couple of occasions she lapses into pure journalistic and political discourse, such as when she reports on the results of the presidential elections, on the issue of East Jerusalem or on her visit to a settlement. But then, how else does one convey the reality of the wicked injustices committed in connivance with the misinformed Western public? Olson gives an early inkling of what she was up against (p. 66):

“I got my first clue when I began talking with friends about what I had seen. Some were skeptical, which was understandable. Others refused to believe things I have seen with my own eyes. Several, who had never been anywhere near the Middle East, informed me that I was naïve and I must have been brainwashed. More than one made vicious generalizations about Arabs and Muslims that they would never dare make about any other race or religion. It was so bizarre to see friends turn into different people around this issue, I almost began to question my own sanity.”

As a young American college graduate, Olson had shared the usual media-inspired preconceived ideas (p. 3):

“I’d always hazily pictured the Middle East as a vast desert full of cave-dwelling, Kalashnikov-wielding, misogynistic, bearded maniacs, and I figured anyone without an armored convoy and a PhD in Middle Eastern studies should probably stay out of it.”

Fortunately, eventually she found herself in the West Bank village of Jayyous through a combination of curiosity, adventurism and sheer luck. Like Rachel Corrie shortly before her [Let Me Stand Alone, Norton, New York, 2008], Anna Baltzer at about the same time [Witness In Palestine, Paradigm, Boulder, Co, 2007], and scores of unpublished international activists before and since, she was in the throes of her private search for meaning in life. “That spark I’d had as a kid, the passion for learning about the world through my own senses, was reigniting,” as she puts it (p. 96.)

That was when she discovered the ultimate contradiction of a people, oppressed and dehumanized through her own unwilling and unknowing connivance, extending extreme hospitality to her. This is the moment I will call Olson’s “olive-ahlan-wa-sahlan” conversion: a sudden realization that the Palestinians, victims of her own government’s policies, were not only human but also generous and welcoming beyond belief. “If you ask for directions, you get invited to dinner.” They took the wayward American tourist as one of their own, repeating their incessant welcoming mantra beseeching her to “Be at ease, like one of the family.”

As if to prove the point, they take her to pick olives in their fields, ravaged by the American-funded occupation and violated by Israel’s apartheid wall. Beyond the camaraderie of toiling together in the presence of the historic witness that each ancient olive tree stands for, the experience inspires a miraculous spiritual enlightenment of sorts: Not only are Palestinians generous (like most Middle Eastern natives are), they also display stunning resilience and lack of bitterness despite all their suffering, a kind of grace the author finds incredibly inspiring. Soon Olson begins to fall in love with this land into which she has stumbled (p. 118):

“The thought of olive oil literally flowing like water out of this land enchanted me beyond all reason. As we turned to walk home I was infused with a sensation I’d never felt before, a feeling of having arrived, of finding myself in just the right place on earth at exactly the right time. Suddenly I couldn’t imagine living anywhere but Palestine, close to olive trees and white stone houses and Bible hills turning blue as the sun set over a sea we couldn’t walk to and touch without crossing walls and checkpoints. Life here was hard and lonely and confusing, but it was also full and exciting, cynical and funny, and often lovely beyond description. For the first time since I’d arrived in Ramallah I wasn’t looking forward or back anymore. I was just here, now, and happy.”

Or again (p. 165):

“We harvested each day until we couldn’t see anymore, then we would take tea and watch the last lights of sunset fade, chat or just think our thoughts while the stars broke out of the crystal sky one by one. In those moments, leaning against an ever-growing pile of ripe olives, breathing in the deep, rich subterranean scent of a hard day’s work, I felt completely content and at peace… On evenings like this, in a world like this, it seemed downright ungracious ever to despair. It was, after all, absurd to hate the slaughter and waste and hardship and destruction without acknowledging the flipside: that life was here, that the whole reason we hated waste and destruction was because we loved life and this world so much.”

Olson’s conversion was not purely of the intellectual or spiritual variety, however. She also met a handsome young Palestinian named Qais who, like her, had studied in Russia and spoke Russian, which served them, I imagine, as a means of illicit communication in conservative rural Palestine. Eventually, in her role as journalist and foreign press coordinator for Dr. Mustafa Barghouthi’s bid for the presidency of the PNA, she befriended many Palestinian peers, including her “loud-mouthed Gaza Communist” roommate, as well as countless international volunteers and activists. She even ventured some cross-border visits with Israeli friends, which must have served as subconscious reality checks and occasional escapes to her more familiar former sociopolitical surroundings, the usual Western milieu. And more than once she tour-guided Jewish and/or Israeli friends, some not even all that liberal, on tours of Palestinian towns, villages, and refugee camps.

Before I commenced reading ‘Fast Times in Palestine,’ I had been emotionally immersed in the journals of Rachel Corrie. Now I missed Rachel’s intimate conversations with her parents in her emails home as she tried to explain to them what she was doing in Gaza. I was curious about the trickledown effect of Olson’s intense exposure to the lives of Palestinians under occupation on her next of kin. Just as the suspicion started sneaking into my mind that here we were dealing with a super-intelligent but rootless and freaky American kid on the loose, she revealed that she had been writing home regularly. She then gives a moving account of her parents’ experience on visiting her in the Holy Land, an experience best summed up with the line (p. 278):

“Good Lord,” Mom said. “How can this be happening over here and no one in America even know or care?”

And again (p. 280):

“Seeing a soldier arbitrarily deny my mother a glimpse of one of the wonders of the world on her once-in-a-lifetime vacation awakened a primal rage I didn’t realize I was capable of. For the first time I experienced the literal truth of ‘seeing red.’ I started yelling at the soldier, much to his amusement and my mother’s horror… I can’t imagine what I would have felt, or what I might have been capable of, if the soldier had been denying my mother life-saving medical treatment instead of just messing up her vacation.”

That evoked vivid memories of my own parents-in-law on their first visit to Israel and of their fretful sobbing over the depravity their daughter had chosen to live under with her Palestinian husband in Galilee. And we weren’t even under occupation in the narrow sense of international law; we were Israeli citizens.

All through the book, Olson writes in an animated, lively, engaging, witty and intimate style. But in expressing her inner feelings and her acute sense of empathy with the other, she often waxes touchingly poetic (p. 176):

“But who could watch so many proud young women and dignified old men humiliated at checkpoints? Who could watch the obscenity of helpless, impoverished, dispossessed people being bombed in Gaza like fish in a barrel? [‘Like cockroaches in a bottle,’ an Israeli leader once put it.] How long could and should someone stand it? A diminished life was better than no life. There was always a secret space no oppression could ever touch. But how could a valiant or a sensitive soul bear it?

We all thinking it, Qais. We all miss God, or whatever you want to call the pure thing that runs through all this. And you’re trapped here, imprisoned, in a way so obscene it’s impossible to contemplate. And still you have to live it. You, a lucky kid who made it past his twentieth birthday.

Qais asked why I was crying. He said he didn’t want to hear me cry; he couldn’t endure it. Sometimes I wasn’t sure I could endure it, either. How I was supposed to think about a world where the life of a Palestinian was utterly disposable?…

I thought about suicide for the first time not as an abstraction but as a genuine option – a way to drop out of the whole diabolical game. But I dismissed it immediately. When I thought of what I would go through if Qais was killed, by his own hand or anyone else’s, it was impossible to justify putting anyone else through that just to ease my own conscience and end my own pain.”

Or take, for example, her brief, acerbic, almost photographic rendition of a common Palestinian scene (p. 272):

“It was standard fare for a Palestinian refugee camp -- narrow streets, concrete buildings, cramped alleys, and occasional touches of bougainvillea or decorative tiles to lend a whiff of dignity.”

Olson’s empathy and good vibes envelop even those literally on the other side of the fence: (p. 222)

“But [the Israeli soldier] was, after all, just a teenager. Wars and occupation were innately abhorrent things, poisoning the soul and society of all involved. Here was another kid caught in the maw of it, standing at a checkpoint instead of off at a college somewhere studying and partying. It seemed like such a pointless waste.”

And she never loses her sense of humor. It flows throughout her narrative and seems to come handy in tight spots as a form of comic relief:

“Abir and I agreed the soldier was cute, but I said, ‘Does that ever work? Picking up chicks while you’re oppressing them?’
‘Who knows?’ said Abir. ‘Why do construction workers whistle at girls who pass by?’
‘I guess men with big metal objects in their hands get overconfident or something.’”

No less poetic are her descriptions of scenes of the wilderness and relaxed romantic settings she finds herself privy to, whether in the Sinai, Jordan or the West Bank (p. 287):

“The moon had a bright ring around it twenty moon-diameters across, which made it look like the dome of a great cathedral. The jagged stone mountains were like pillars conjured by God. The surrounding sea of silken sand softly refracted the moonlight’s radiance. The stars, subtly colored, brilliant, three-dimensional, embedded in the silvery ink of unlikely existence, were unbearably beautiful. The breeze, neither warm nor cool, seemed to blow through me.”

Poetic and romantic when feeling one with nature, fun-loving yet acutely observant and closely connected to the people around her, and moving in her compassion for the downtrodden and oppressed, Olson comes across as innately humane and witty. Palestinians couldn’t have befriended a better advocate.

Yet, as a Public Health specialist, I permit myself to end on a critical note: All through her beautifully written book, Olson romanticizes the Nargila [hookah], the new scourge of youth in the Middle East, a much more harmful fad than cigarette smoking. Unintentionally she sows the seed of harm in her endearing description of life in Palestine. I do hope, and plead, that she will insist on banishing that from the film version.